Thursday, September 25, 2008

Walvis Bay, Namibia

Namibia is incredible. I am still in awe of the things I got to see and experience. The environment here is like nothing I’ve ever seen before. From the upper deck of our boat you could look out over the entire city of Walvis Bay to the point where the roads met the sand dunes. There are no tall buildings obstructing the view. I have heard that Namibia is one of the few places on earth where the desert meets the edge of the ocean.

Namibia was quite a change of pace from our last port. The city of Salvador is home to more than 2 million people, which is more than the entire population of Namibia. The most important part of Walvis Bay is the port so it’s a relatively industrial city. It will probably be the least touristy port we travel to.

On the first day in Walvis Bay I went on a guided tour through the desert. The scenery was spectacular. I’ve never seen anything like it. After the tour we spent some time walking around Walvis Bay. Most stores and businesses close at 5:30 and nothing is open on the weekends. An unfortunate side effect of this problem was that everyone from Semester at Sea would be at the same places. There were about 3 restaurants/bars that were open late which meant they were flooded with SAS students. The experience of going to a local restaurant is definitely tainted when it’s packed with Americans. So, Emma and I tried to make it our goal to go to places that were not popular. Apparently it was such a big deal Semester at Sea was there that we were featured in the local newspaper and TV station.

The next day I went to a nearby city called Swakopmund. It is a lot more populated than Walvis Bay and has many more stores and restaurants. The city used to be a Germany colony so it still has a ton of German influence. I was extremely impressed with how many languages people spoke. English is the official language of Namibia, but most people speak a mix of Afrikaans and Dutch. German is also commonly spoken, and there are many different indigenous languages. Being in Swakopmund did not feel like being in Africa. The architecture looked very European and you could order bratwurst and fries. Also, people here drink Jager and beer like water. In Swakopmund Emma and I tried to find a fun place to go out at night, but all the bars were taken over by SAS students and loud American music – not exactly the Namibian experience. Finally we found this really cute place where we were the only Americans and they were playing traditional music. Ironically, the place was called El Cubano.

Definitely the coolest thing I did in Namibia was go 4-wheeling through the desert. I went with a group of 8 people and we all had our own vehicle. Not only was it ridiculously fun, but the views were incredible. You would drive up a really high dune and be able to see nothing but desert around you. I don’t know how the guides remember their way around because after about 10 minutes I had no idea how to get back. If you ever go to Namibia you have to do this!!!

On the last night I met this guy named George. He was born in Brussels, lives in London, and his parents are from Namibia (at least that’s what he told me). He said he was here filming a movie (or it might have been a BBC special) starring Vin Diesel. It’s called The Prisoner, and I’m really curious to know if he was telling the truth, so look it up on IMBD for me and let me know.

Overall impressions – The people here are extremely friendly. Everyone you walk by on the street says hello and asks how you’re doing. Their accents are very attractive. The food was pretty tasty. I had shrimp, mussels, oysters, the best calamari of my life, ostrich, oryx, and shark. The weather was pretty crazy. It would be freezing in the morning, hot in the afternoon, and cool at night. I can’t even come up with enough adjectives to describe the scenery: gorgeous, stunning, breath-taking. Literally every time we were in the desert or driving by it, my mouth would drop. I would love to spend more time traveling throughout Africa.

Only two days of boat life and then we’re in South Africa. Things are getting pretty crazy around here, trying to cram in as much work as possible and planning our trips for the next port.

Random fact – 44 of the 52 countries in the world with life expectancies under 50 are in Africa.

Wednesday, September 17, 2008

Boat Life

Through the course of the trip we have lost 6 hours. You would think that the change wouldn’t be noticeable, but after you lose an hour a night for 4 consecutive nights, you start to feel it. We are now 6 hours ahead of Atlanta time.

Life on the boat between ports is interesting. On the first day back people are really excited to share their stories and see their friends they may have been separated from. On the second day, class begins again and it hits you like a brick. By the third day you become stir-crazy and wonder if there is anything else to do but eat, sleep, go to class, read, and play games. It’s like being at a summer camp the way we spend everyday seeing the same people and going through the same routines. By no means am I bored or unhappy – I’m still having a blast – it’s just funny to see the way people go through these stages when we’re at sea. The stretch between South Africa and India will be the worst – 11 days. I have to remind myself that I’ve only been gone for 21 days. It seems like so much longer.

I realized today that I have not had any sodas since the trip began. That realization surprised me because not once have I craved a Coke. I think it’s really interesting how something that is so prevalent in your everyday life can be so easily forgotten. It just goes to show how unimportant some things really are. It’s not that I love Coke so much that I might have one every day, it’s more about habit and the accessibility of it. I also realized that I don’t miss TV. I hope I continue to make small observations like these.

Tonight we had our cultural pre-port meeting for Namibia. It was kind of funny since there is only one person on the entire ship (including staff and crew) who has ever been to Namibia, so they just researched stuff to tell us. My tentative plans are to spend a few days in the bay and then travel to the next city to the north, Swakopmund, and do some camel riding in the desert. I’ve never been to a desert before!

I am working on uploading pictures, but the way our internet works here it takes way too long. I will do my best to upload some while we’re at port. One more day!

Thursday, September 11, 2008

First Port - Salvador, Brazil

When in Salvador…

1. Eat Moqueca
2. Drink a Caipirinha
3. Go to Itaparica
4. Try Guarana soda
5. Listen to live music and dance in the street with the locals

Do not…

1. Agree to the first price they give you in the market
2. Ride in metered taxis, they drive you in circles (get one where you negotiate a price first)
3. Bring up George W. Bush

We arrived on September 7, which just so happened to be the Brazilian Independence Day. I spent the majority of the day walking around with a big group, just getting to know our surroundings. There are two parts of Salvador – the upper city and the lower city. The upper city is a mainly pedestrian area with shops, restaurants, and markets. To get to the upper city (the safe way) you have to ride this huge elevator thing, which is pretty cool. The streets were really crowded with people, music, and parades because of the holiday.

The following day I went to a Family Planning clinic and learned about women’s reproductive rights in Brazil. It was really fascinating. A few random facts:

1. 50% of the population in Salvador is 18 or younger
2. Treatment for AIDS is provided for free
3. It is common for girls to get pregnant at age 14
4. There are an estimated 1 million abortions a year in Brazil
5. Abortion is illegal except in instances of rape (and then it’s paid for by the government)
6. About half of the world’s population (2.8 billion) survives on less than $2 a day

On Tuesday night there was this crazy awesome dance and music festival in the upper city. There was live music, including a group of drummers who paraded through the streets all night. It was so much fun trying to pick up on the local dance moves – very samba inspired. Basically it was one huge outdoor party with the entire town and it was ridiculously fun.

On Wednesday Emma and I went to a tiny little island called Itaparica. It was a 30 minute ferry ride away, but it was so different from being in Salvador. The beach was beautiful and wasn’t crowded with tourists. We spent the whole day lounging on the beach, taking walks, and throwing the frisbee (finally!!!).

Other stuff – I finally met someone from the south. Not only is she from Atlanta, but she lives in Virginia Highlands and also dances! It was so exciting to talk about home for a while and some of the places we both go. We have actually been to some of the same dance conventions.

Eight days until Namibia.

Tuesday, September 9, 2008

Bahia.com

Sitting in an internet cafe right now. Got to do a little skype-ing. Don't have time to write much but I'm having a great time being on land!! Love you all and thanks for keeping in touch!!!

Saturday, September 6, 2008

Neptune Day

On Thursday night around 8:30 we crossed the Equator! You would have thought it was New Year’s Eve or something, the way people were crowded together outside cheering and taking pictures. I have to admit I was pretty excited myself. On Friday we didn’t have class because it was Neptune Day. Neptune Day is sort of a ritualistic celebration of crossing the equator. I hear that crew members who pass the equator for the first time are usually asked to perform some silly task. This time they got fish guts thrown on them, had to jump in the pool with their clothes on, and kiss a fish. All of the students were invited to join in on this tradition – many people did. Another weird thing about Neptune Day is that people shave their heads (don’t know why). Around 100 people ended up doing it, 10 of them being girls.

Prior to reaching each country we have a cultural and logistical “pre-port” session. Friday night was the cultural pre-port. There is a Brazilian student on board who led the session. It was pretty informative and made me really excited about eating new foods. Tonight was the logistical pre-port where we learned about things like safety, transportation, money, communications, and other things like that.

Other News – I joined a political group onboard. Some of the issues we are working on include getting people absentee ballots, getting copies of the presidential debates and coverage of election day (we have no television), having our own debate, organizing a ship vote where we will see which president Semester at Sea favors and which states those votes come from, and a few other things. There is a volleyball league on the ship now and I decided to captain a team which is pretty funny. I’m still working on the whole frisbee-on-a-boat thing. Maybe we’ll get some beach games going at port.

We arrive in Salvador, Brazil early in the morning!!!

Tuesday, September 2, 2008

Clear Skies

It has now been 5 days on the ship. On Sunday we stopped at Puerto Rico for most of the day so the ship could refuel. We weren’t allowed to get of the ship though. Sunday was also our first day of class. I am already losing track of the days of the week since we don’t go to class on a Monday – Friday schedule. We just have “A” days and “B” days that alternate while we are at sea. There are a total of 46 class days for our 108-day trip – pretty awesome.

These are the classes I’m taking:
Global Studies – Religion, Politics, and Societies around the world
Plants and People – Explorations in Ethnobotany
Women’s Studies – Sexualities in a Global Context
Women’s Studies – Gender and the Global Economy
Literature – The Nobels (examining literature written by Nobel Prize winning authors from the ports we will visit)

It’s kind of a heavy course load considering this is my semester abroad, but I have until October to drop a class if need be.

Last night Emma and I had dinner outside on the 6th deck, in beautiful weather, as the sun was setting, while we sailed past Barbados. It’s so incredible to have day-to-day experiences that are so special like that. Just about every day we’ve been at sea has been beautiful for laying out and reading on the deck. And I have a ton of reading.

I haven’t met anyone else from Atlanta yet, which is kinda cool. At Wake Forest there are tons of Atlantans, but here the vast majority is from California and Colorado. On the flip side there are a million “Allisons.” Papi – you will be happy to know that 74% of the students on this trip are females.

Tonight we have a little party/reception thing for our “sea.” Each hall is divided into sections with a leader, much like living in a dorm and having an RA, and given the name of a sea. I am part of the Adriatic. Later in the semester we will have the Sea Olympics. I’m pretty excited for that.

Other News – my new email address is ALFuster@semesteratsea.net
Internet on the ship is only free for the first 125 minutes, so they gave us these new email addresses that do not count towards that time.

And Happy Birthday Courtney !!!! (tomorrow)